When we think about how the immense Ásbyrgi canyon probably formed, we can undoubtedly say that it has been one of Iceland’s most remarkable natural phenomena. But if we set that aside and simply observe it, we could describe it as impressive, and above all, a very pleasant place to spend a day. Let’s learn about Ásbyrgi canyon.
What is Ásbyrgi Canyon?
Ásbyrgi Canyon is an impressive geological formation in northern Iceland, characterized by its almost perfect horseshoe shape. This canyon is about 100 meters deep and is surrounded by steep cliffs.
It is believed to have been formed by catastrophic glacial floods thousands of years ago, though there is also a legend that attributes it to the footprint of Odin’s horse, the Norse god. Today, it is a popular place for hiking and enjoying nature.
Where is Ásbyrgi Canyon?
Ásbyrgi Canyon is located in northeast Iceland, within Vatnajökull National Park, one of the largest national parks in Europe. It is situated about 100 kilometers east of the city of Akureyri and is accessible by road from the famous Route 1, the ring road of Iceland.
Its location in the northern part of the country makes it an essential stop for those exploring the region of Þingeyjarsveit and the surroundings of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river.
About Ásbyrgi Canyon
Ásbyrgi is a marvel of nature, an immense horseshoe-shaped canyon with facing cliffs up to 100 m high. It is a giant, 3.5 km long and more than 1 km wide. At its inner end lies Botnstjörn, a small pond, surrounded by lush vegetation. And finally, a rocky formation known as Eyjan (the island) rises from the center of Ásbyrgi, up to 250 m wide.
The area is populated by low forest whose dominant species are birch, willow, and mountain ash. Several thousand recently planted pines also thrive. The northern fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis), a bird native to these latitudes, nests on the cliffs, while many other birds prefer the woods and meadows.
The Ásbyrgi canyon is formed by two or more “catastrophic floods” caused by subglacial volcanic explosions and eruptions in Vatnajökull (the largest ice mass in Europe), one between eight and ten thousand years ago and the second approximately three thousand years ago. Since then, the riverbed has moved eastward.
The legend of Ásbyrgi tells that Sleipnir (Sleipnir was Odin’s gigantic eight-legged horse) placed his hoof there and left a giant footprint. However, since the footprint is 3x1km, let’s assume this is a bit unlikely. Ásbyrgi is part of the Vatnajökull National Park maintained by the Icelandic Forest Service. In the area, there is a shop and a restaurant.
HIKING TRAILS IN ÁSBYRGI
A-1 Botnstjörn Pond
- Distance: 1 km (circular route) with other possibilities.
- Hiking time: ½ hour (more if we extend the possibilities)
- Starting point: In the parking lot within Ásbyrgi canyon.
- Difficulty: Easy
There are several easy and interesting routes at the bottom of Ásbyrgi, starting from the parking lot. A walk up the stone stairs leads to a platform at the small pond, Botnstjörn.
There is also a nice view over the pond from a platform located below the western wall of the canyon. The route to this platform, from the parking lot, is suitable for people with reduced mobility. A few steps from the platform, stone steps lead up to a small hill with a beautiful view over Ásbyrgi canyon.
A-2 Eyjan Ásbyrgi Rock Formation
- Distance: 4.5 km (round trip)
- Hiking time: 1.5-2 hours
- Starting point: Parking lot in front of the service house at the campsite
- Difficulty: Easy
The trail that climbs to Eyjan in Ásbyrgi starts at the campsite parking lot. From here, you need to follow the trail north until you reach the cliff where the ascent begins. Wooden stairs have been conditioned to facilitate this access. Once we are up at Eyjan, the path advances until reaching an old pile of stones. From there, we see the trail that stretches 2 km.
This runs south along the cliff with a beautiful view over Ásbyrgi. This route is a very pleasant afternoon walk.
A-3 Through the Forests
- Distance: 4 km (one way)
- Hiking time: 1.5 hours
- Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Easy
This route can also be done by bike. It starts at the Ásbyrgi Visitor Center and follows the path below the eastern wall/cliff of Ásbyrgi. The path runs from here south to the Botnstjörn pond at the bottom of the canyon, which we have already introduced in another route (A-1). The route passes through several forest plots that were reforested with conifers during the years 1947-1977. Several bird species nest in the various forests. It is possible to combine this route with route A-4 to make a circular route.
A-4 Below Eyjan “the island”
- Distance: 3.5 km (one way)
- Hiking time: 1 hour
- Starting point: Ásbyrgi Campsite
- Difficulty: Medium
This route starts at the southwest part of the campsite. First, the route goes below the cliff wall. It is also possible to see nests of the raven (Corvus corax), which the gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus) is fond of using for its own chicks.
From here, the path goes westward, observing all kinds of shrubs characteristic of this northern region of Iceland until it ends in an old playing field in Ásbyrgi.
It is possible to combine this route with route A-3 and make a circular route.
A-5 Áshöfði Circular Route
- Distance: 7.5 km (circle)
- Hiking time: 2-3 hours
- Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Medium
This route begins and ends at the Visitor Center. The trail first takes you along the golf course to the east, up to Ástjörn lake where there is abundant birdlife. The path passes by the summer camp and from there around the hill, beginning to head south, passing through a moor and small ponds. When the path turns west, there is a beautiful view of the river Jökuslá. The path then goes north, along Gilsbakki.
To return to the Visitor Center there are two routes to choose from:
– The east route goes along Ásgil and Ás.
– The west route goes along the edge of Ásbyrgi, Tófugjá, and then northward along the trail to the golf course, where there are a few hundred meters back to the Visitor Center.
A-6 Through Áshöfði (circular route)
- Distance: 7 km (circle)
- Hiking time: 2-3 hours
li>Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Medium
This route is mostly similar to route A-5. The route starts at the same place, at the Visitor Center, and goes along the southern end of Ástjörn lake, beyond the campsite, circling the hill. But just before being able to see the river Jökulsá, this route turns west at the crossroads and follows a path crossing Áshöfði.
From the west side of the hill, there is a beautiful view of the old farm Ás, the Ásbyrgi canyon, and to the north the vast surface of sand formed by the river Jökulsá, unobstructed for centuries. On the other side of the hill, the route follows the same path back, through the summer camp and by the south side of Ástjörn lake.
A-7 Kúahvammur (circular route)
- Distance: 12 km (circle)
- Hiking time: 4-5 hours
- Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Medium
This route offers an excellent view over Ásbyrgi and the Jökulsá river canyon. The route starts at the Visitor Center, from where there are two options for climbing the cliff.
It is easier to go east along the golf course and once here, head south from where the route follows the edge of the canyon.
The more challenging route is to walk 700m south from the Visitor Center, turn left at the intersection and climb up the cliff from there. There is a support rope. From there, the trail that runs along the eastern edge of Ásbyrgi will show us some surprising shapes carved in the rock due to the catastrophic floods of the River Jökulsá.
The view over Ásbyrgi is simply breathtaking. From Klapper through the moor to Jökulsá and then along a gorge, passing Gilsbakki until returning to the starting point. It is also possible to follow the same path back from Klappir (route A-8). It is Juan’s favorite route.
A-8 Klappir
- Distance: 9 km (round trip)
- Hiking time: 2.5-3 hours
- Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Medium
This route starts at the same place as route A-7. Please see the description of that route. This route goes around Klappir and takes the same path. The route offers an excellent view over Ásbyrgi and you can appreciate some unique mounds in Klappir, formed by the catastrophic floods in the Jökulsá river.
A-9 Kvíar (circular route)
- Distance: 17 Km (circle)
- Hiking time: 6-7 hours
- Starting point: Visitor Center
- Difficulty: Medium
This route offers the opportunity to walk along the diverse landscape of Ásbyrgi and its surroundings during a full day. The views during the route are spectacular and unique remnants of “catastrophic floods” in the Jökulsá river can be observed.
The starting point of the route is the same as in A-7. When you reach Klappir, instead of going east as in route A-7, the path continues south to Kvíar. In Kvíar, the various waterfalls or closed holes (called “byrgi” in Icelandic) are clear remnants of “catastrophic floods”. From the Kvíar intersection, the route turns north and follows along the river Jökulsá. Upon reaching the intersection in Kúahvammur, the route continues further north until it meets the end of route A-7.
SPECIAL 2-DAY HIKING ROUTE FROM ASBYRGI
Hiking route from Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss
Hiking along the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, from the lush Ásbyrgi canyon to the arid but magnificent surroundings of Dettifoss, is a unique experience for every hiker. The diversity of the landscape is unique and captures our attention at every step: huge gorges, gentle ponds, clear waters, a violent river, lush forests, and barren gravel plains.
Distances:
• Ásbyrgi – Dettifoss, total: 32 km
• Route Ásbyrgi – Vesturdalur: 12 km or 13.6 km (see the description of the route)
Segment Vesturdalur – Hólmatungur: 8 km
• Hólmatungur – Dettifoss (via Hafragil): 11.5 km
Route map
Here you have a map of Jökulsárgljúfur
Description of the route
Unless you are a very experienced hiker, it takes two days to cover the distance between Ásbyrgi and Dettifoss, normally staying overnight in Vesturdalur (Hljóðaklettar). The route can be hiked in both directions (starting indifferently in Ásbyrgi or Dettifoss). In Jökulsárgljúfur, camping is only allowed in the official campgrounds of Ásbyrgi, Vesturdalur, and Dettifoss (the latter a small campground with few facilities).
Part I
From Ásbyrgi to Vesturdalur there are two paths to choose from:
-One runs along the edge of Ásbyrgi, and goes south along Klappir and Kvíar and is a little over 12 km.
The other route goes east, closer to the river, but on that we will walk 13.6 km. Both routes start at the Visitor Center in Ásbyrgi.
From the Visitor Center, there are two ways to access the “horseshoe” of Ásbyrgi:
An easier way is to go east over the golf course and from there south at the intersection we find on the golf course. From there, the trail climbs up the lower part of the cliff. – A more difficult way is to go directly south from the Visitor Center, towards the intersection at Tófugjá. There, turn east and go up to the cliff, where there is a rope for support. We do not recommend taking this path if you are carrying a very heavy backpack.
Once we reach Tófugjá, it is possible to choose which path to take to Vesturdalur, either along the edge of Ásbyrgi or along the river Jökulsá.
Part II
The route between Vesturdalur and Hólmatungur is about 8 km. The only river that has to be forded during the hike, Stalla, is on this part. Stalla is a spring river that flows into the river Jökulsá. The river is shallow and very cold, but fording it will refresh our tired legs and make the journey more memorable.
From Hólmatungur there is approximately a 10 km hike south to Dettifoss, if we go along the lower Hafragil lowlands (not recommendable if you carry a heavy backpack).
If we go along the Hafragil gorge, the route is 11.5 km. If you have a heavy backpack, take the longer route, leave the weight at the Dettifoss campground, and then go back to explore the lower area of Hafragil.
Accommodation
There are no shelters or cabins on the route, and camping is only allowed in the park’s campgrounds. In Vesturdalur, there is a nice campground with toilets, cold water, and no shower. Please contact the park rangers before camping.
In Dettifoss, there is a small camping area, only intended for hikers. The area is located north of the parking lot. There is no running water at the campground, but the rangers bring fresh water every day, so you should be careful not to waste it.
Drinking Water
– Between Ásbyrgi and Vesturdalur there are no streams or springs to drink from. Hikers should carry water with them.
– In Vestudalur there is running water in the toilets at the campground. Be careful! It is not recommended to drink water from the river due to the high traffic of people in the area during the summer.
– In Hólmatungur, there are plenty of springs from which it is safe to drink water.
– Between Hólmatungur and Dettifoss, the only river is in Hafragil but for the same reason, it is not advisable to drink water from it.
– At Dettifoss, there is no running water. The park rangers bring water in tanks to the camping area. Hikers should moderate their use of this water.
Obstacles on the Route
Most of the route runs very smoothly and is simple. The main obstacles are:
Tófugjá in Ásbyrgi is the path that climbs up the rock wall of the Ásbyrgi canyon. There is a rope ladder as support although you can choose another way to reach the edge (see the route description)
Stalla is the only river that has to be forded. It is shallow and very cold, but not a major obstacle for hikers.
The lower part of Hafragil is the most difficult part of the route in Jökulsárgljúfur, but also the most beautiful and spectacular. People carrying heavy backpacks are advised not to go down to this area, as the path is very narrow in some areas. In Sanddalur the path is very steep and there is a support rope for going up/down.
On the other hand, the path runs along large rocks, and there is a danger that some of them may fall onto the path. For those carrying heavy loads and wishing to explore the lowlands, it is better to go all the way to the campground at Dettifoss, leave the luggage there, and then go back down to that low area of Hafragil.
Those who suffer from vertigo are also not advised to go on this route.
Transport from the End Point
The trail from Ásbyrgi to Dettifoss is a one-way route. Hikers must organize to return from the endpoint. There are two moderately large bus companies that offer regular transportation between Ásbyrgi and Dettifoss; SBA and Fjallasýn.
SBA offers daily tours between Dettifoss and Ásbyrgi from June 18 to the end of August.
The company Fjallasýn offers transportation and/or guided tours between Ásbyrgi and Dettifoss. The school bus driver Guðmundur Þórarinsson also offers services to hikers and tourists during the summer, tel: 892-8928
Tourist Information about Ásbyrgi
The Visitor Center of the National Park, called “Gljufrastofa”, is located in Ásbyrgi. It is open during the summer Tel: 470 7100, email: [email protected]
I would like to conclude this article with a video of the Icelandic band Sigur Rós in Ásbyrgi
Adrián, Islandia24